Raf Simons' Dior Debut

Set to a floral backdrop, not to mention the fashion world waiting with baited breath, Raf Simons debuted his first collection for Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week on Monday. It was the snakes and ladders of fashion, with Raf Simons rising from Jil Sander to Dior, and John Galliano falling down from favour after an anti-semitic rant in 2011. The haute couture collection showed references to Simons' last show for Jil Sander (see here), with cashmere pink, blood red and navy blue bodiced dresses and 1950's shaped coats. A welcome simplicity and return to form. 

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Raf Simons last show for Jil Sander- AW12 Milan Fashion Week

This was the last collection of Raf Simons for Jil Sander, where he will go next is unknown (perhaps Dior, perhaps to concentrate on his own line), so the show understandably had a feeling of an end of an era, but also an excitement for new beginnings. The collection in typical Simons style was characterised by elegance and simplicity, with a pretty colour palette and calm, minimal shapes. Collarless cashmere coats were two-toned, with a light pink exterior and a pale cream interior, whilst dresses seemed inspired by vintage lingerie. The simplicity in the detail and the level of craftsmanship was the real winner; the clothes were well structured and beautifully made. And for someone who has had no formal training in womenswear, and who joined the brand with experience solely in menswear, this clearly is the beginning and not the end for Raf Simons. 

Images: Vogue France

Set in the Milan showroom, designed by Gabellini Associates, the collection was set to a romantic backdrop of seven perspex plinths, encasing bouquets by Antwerp-based florist Marc Calle. 

Images: Style Bubble

Previous showspaces for Jil Sander.

Menswear Autumn/Winter 2012

Womenswear Spring/Summer 2011- Thierry Dreyfus lighting. 

 Autumn/Winter 2010

 Menswear Spring/Summer 2010

 Spring/Summer 2008- Raf Simons chose a simple backdrop of their Milan showroom, designed by Gabellini Associates, with lighting by Thierry Dreyfus. 

Images: Wallpaper

Jil Sander Navy Spring 2012 Campaign

Images: Jil Sander

Model: Sojourner Morell

Photographer: Daniel Jackson

Stylist: Katie Shillingford

Jil Sander- Milan Fashion Week AW'11

Jil Sander's collections are always, simple, elegant and full of fluid silhouettes, and this show was no exception. Boxy, architecturally shaped jackets came in an assortment of colours, my favourite being the rich teal. See: http://www.vogue.it/